So after the incredibly long and vague post about the last 2 weeks, I think I'll take some time to talk about my progress into becoming a surfing legend.
For those of you who've ever tried surfing, you'll know that it's a lot harder than it looks - so despite the fact that I've been working hard, I'm not exactly awesome just yet. I have however reached an important landmark - I'm starting to get 'out back.'
I am however still falling off the board a lot. I've gone over the side, off the back and over the nose of the board more times than I care to count. I'm still loving it though. I also got a real treat a couple of days ago. Just as I was getting out to the line up I saw what looked like a dog's head pop up about 10 feet ahead of me. It looked at me for a bit and then dived into the water and vanished. I've seen seals before (at zoos & stuff), but never this close, and never in the wild. It was a strange and rather beautiful experience as it was a quiet day in the surf, and there weren't many other folk around when this happened - but it was definitely awesome.
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